I got in to the water late. I’d checked the forecast and seen the swell was picking up and the wind was going to be perfect, but yesterday arvo a friend came around and told me ‘No, it’s going to be really windy and blown out’, so when I woke up this morning I wasn’t in any kind of rush.

I eventually meandered down and was happy to see it was glassy (small, but glassy), and not too crowded. It was lucky I’d decided last minute to even take my board down – because I was honestly expecting it to be totally blown out and was anticipating a windy walk along the beach.

Yes, it was small – about 2-3 foot – but I like that. I can’t go out in anything much bigger because I’m too unfit. But 2-3 foot means the waves are big enough to paddle onto easily and they weren’t closing out. There was this nice soft, gentle, take-off, which, if it was one of the bigger sets, would wall up, and there would be a nice ride all the way in to shore. Not all of them were walling up, some were just the take-off and then would die out, so it was a bit inconsistent.

I lucked out on one wave when for some reason all the blokes were sitting outside the take-off point and a wave came through that I was just like ‘fucking yes, this is miiiiine’ and it was a beautiful ride all the way in to shore (a dude dropped in on me and I was absolutely gunning for him – hoping to smash him or his board). He apologised, but I’m fucking done with men apologising to me after they drop in on me. It’s like ‘you know what? it’s happened to me my whole life, and it’s going to happen to me again and again and again and again, and there’s no use you apologising to me and not doing it again, because some other dude is going to do it after you’. I know why they do it, they do it because I’m a woman, and they assume I can’t surf, so they take off on the wave because they think I’m going to fall off. I’m so done with it, hey. So utterly fucking done with it. I never drop in on anyone. Even people who I do think will probably come off the wave.

Anyway, other than that : ) I had a lovely little surf. I caught a few nice smaller ones too, and it was so nice to get some waaaaaves. I’m totally smashed now.


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