smashed

I joined a Meetup group and have been waking up at 5.30am and driving up to Scarborough to surf. I’d never surfed up there before but really, really needed to explore breaks around the metro area. My little spots just don’t get enough swell and even though it’s still small up there, it’s bigger than down here.

I’ve met a few nice people to surf with and swapped numbers with one woman who’s  a similar level to me.  I feel like I have eyes and ears up North now, to tell me if it’s on and introduce me to unfamiliar breaks. I haven’t got much to report surf-wise though. I’ve had a few small surfs up there;  it’s a beach-break, we got it at about two or so feet – nothing dramatic, just really nice to get out there.

Anyway, I’m totally smashed with tiredness. The good, physical tiredness, not the bad, brain-dead, sitting in front of a computer all day tiredness. I’ve been doing yoga, eating, having afternoon nanna-naps, reading, listening to podcasts, watching T.V shows I’ve downloaded, and generally just been cruising.

A beach with a 'Rescue Coffee' cup in the foreground.
On my way home. No Swell.

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