Texts to Friends: On waves

I really wish I’d written more of these to people.

23/08/2015 5:14:20 pm: We had a day off today, but yesterday was brilliant. We had an early, and it was tiny but perfectly glassy. And there were only 3 other ppl out for about half an hour and it was great. The second surf was at outsides and it’s kind of a scary wave, but when you sit and get used to it, it’s ok. It’s a bombie out the back, and it just looks fucking huge. I had to really push myself to go out and catch one and the boys really pushed me. I caught a couple and it’s a steep drop but then gets kinda fat. Then they made me sit really deep, close to the rocks and catch the ‘not bombies’ that came through. They were difficult to get onto but once you did they were fast and a bit closey outy, but you could get a nice wall for a little while. I’ve really been pushing myself, not 100%, because I’m still scared, but at least 80%. They’ve given me a bigger board too, which is good because I’m catching heaps and heaps of waves on it. Of course, even though the waves look huge when we’re out there, when we look at the photos, it’s tiny. It’s shocking. I saw PigDog Mel take off on a monster of a wave, but when we looked at the photos I was so shocked that it was so small. It’s super disheartening…. We had our day off today and I really needed it but I hope I can get amped again. I have a coral cut on my knee that I think is a bit infected; it hurts like fuck to bend my knee. I just hope it doesn’t make me too passive in the water…

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