I’m heading back to Indonesia. I’m pretty excited. I’m not sad to leave Suratthani at all. I liked the school, my co-workers, management, and the students, but I’m not a huge fan of the city. I’ve been sick almost the entire time I’ve been here – with some kind of recurring cold/flu thing and I’ve been wondering if there’s a lot of pollution, ’cause my chest is all fucked up. It’s dirty here, man. It’s hot, and there’s not too much to do. I liked my schedule and I liked getting out of the city. I’m glad I didn’t sign on for another year.
I have two months before I have to start my next job and I’m going to surf my brains out. I can’t wait. Every time I think about it, I get a rush of adrenaline and my stomach flips over. I have all these fears, like, what if I’ve lost all my ability and I paddle out and totally kook all over the place? Then I’ll never get any respect and I won’t get any waves. I know that I have to paddle straight out the back and catch a wave, but I’m worried I won’t be fit enough. I was thinking I should just paddle out and sit on the shoulder and catch a few waves there to make sure I don’t totally fuck up, but then I realised, if I fuck around on the shoulder then people are going to try and dominate me. Surfing is such a beautiful mind fuck.
I cannot wait.