There are so many mysterious things here that I could take photos of, but as soon as I saw day 10s theme, this image popped into my head. It’s another cheat (I know – I suck), because I took it when I first arrived.I think I even posted it on here before.

Everything here was so mysterious to me then. I felt, in those first few days, a little on edge; I felt conspicuous, wary, and a little unsure. Everything seemed strange and new and weird. I didn’t know how to drive a bike yet, and the road rules were an enigma. I didn’t know the language. I didn’t know where anything was. I didn’t know the break. I didn’t know the wave. I didn’t even know where I was meant to paddle out. Slowly, everything coalesced into a kind familiarity, and when I get back here, it feels a little like home.


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