42

It’s my birthday today. The swell’s been promising to hit for the last week, and this morning it finally did. Happy Birthday to me. I paddled out at 6.30 and there were just 6 guys out. I was surprised ’cause by that time, normally, there’s hundreds. Happy Birthday to me. I took off on a couple of the biggest waves I’ve ever taken off on. Happy Birthday to me. I got caught inside, and as I was trying to paddle back out I got completely mashed by a wall of white water. Bleeding nose and all. Happy Birthday to me.

Next door to my home-stay is a construction site. As I was walking down the driveway toward the entrance to my place, a little Indonesian construction worker was squatting in a gap in the wall separating the driveway from the work-site. “Saya mau” he said, pointing at me, and grabbing his dick. I told him to fuck off, and then I ran at him and kicked him so hard in the chest, he rolled backwards. The look of surprise on his face made me feel so fucking good. I’m still laughing about it.

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