My contract finishes here in a little under two weeks. I sold my moto a few weeks ago and I’ve been Go-jeking around. I’m not sad or excited; I’m in preparation mode.
Work offered to renew my contract here in Bangers for good money but it’s just too far away from the water. I spend all my money on flights to the waves. And, my surfing plateaus when I’m only surfing once a month; I spend the first two days in the water finding my sea-legs. I’m sad to leave my co-workers though, and this weird city with very few Westerners.
I’ve been offered another contract (for terrible money) in a city with waves. It’s in a super touristy area which is kinda gross but I’m just going to try to surf every day for the year and make the most of it.
I flew to Bali from Java last Saturday for a week of surfing. After 2 months out of the water, it took me 4 days, really, to start feeling like I’m capable again. When I first arrived it was quite big and messy. I paddled out and caught waves but I just didn’t have the physical capability to get truly stuck into it; it really sucks how quickly I lose surf fitness.
It was only yesterday and today that I started to feel, yes! I bought a ‘new’ (second-hand) board. It utterly rips. Paddles well and is super fast. I really, really like it. I’d love a few weeks of getting to know it better, but alas, it’s back to work for me on Monday.
I really wish I’d written more of these to people.
23/08/2015 5:14:20 pm: We had a day off today, but yesterday was brilliant. We had an early, and it was tiny but perfectly glassy. And there were only 3 other ppl out for about half an hour and it was great. The second surf was at outsides and it’s kind of a scary wave, but when you sit and get used to it, it’s ok. It’s a bombie out the back, and it just looks fucking huge. I had to really push myself to go out and catch one and the boys really pushed me. I caught a couple and it’s a steep drop but then gets kinda fat. Then they made me sit really deep, close to the rocks and catch the ‘not bombies’ that came through. They were difficult to get onto but once you did they were fast and a bit closey outy, but you could get a nice wall for a little while. I’ve really been pushing myself, not 100%, because I’m still scared, but at least 80%. They’ve given me a bigger board too, which is good because I’m catching heaps and heaps of waves on it. Of course, even though the waves look huge when we’re out there, when we look at the photos, it’s tiny. It’s shocking. I saw PigDog Mel take off on a monster of a wave, but when we looked at the photos I was so shocked that it was so small. It’s super disheartening…. We had our day off today and I really needed it but I hope I can get amped again. I have a coral cut on my knee that I think is a bit infected; it hurts like fuck to bend my knee. I just hope it doesn’t make me too passive in the water…